Thailand, Day 1: Malls and Monitors

On our first day in Bangkok, we woke up eager to get out, see the sites, and begin our quest to cram as much food into our faces over the next two weeks as possible.  We were staying in Chinatown, which had been described to us as absolutely the best place to stay to try as many different kinds of food as possible.

Yaowarat Road by day

This is Yaowarat Road, one of the most famous street food areas in the world.  It was two blocks from our hotel.  The better view is at night, but we’ll get to that.  But first – where to start?

How about a restaurant famous for it’s rice roll noodles and crispy pork belly?  Sounds great!

Rice roll noodle soup

While it is certainly possible to get a traditional Western breakfast in Bangkok, we discovered that it seems just as common for locals to sit down and eat a portion of the same thing they might have for lunch or dinner.  And when THIS is on offer, why wouldn’t you?  This was spectacular, and we were worried that we might have peaked too early.  (Spoiler: we did not)

We spent another few hours bonking around Chinatown looking at cute art galleries and painted elephants:

We also consumed, according to my notes, a Hong Kong style coffee / tea hybrid drink, a glass of langan juice, and a chocolate Madeline.

We didn’t have a FOMRAL plan for the first day other than eat, wander around, eat, attempt to recover from jet lag, and maybe eat a bit, so we decided to hop on the subway (no durian allowed) and head over to a nearby park where we heard there were monitor lizards to be seen.

On arrival at the park, we were confronted with what turned out to be a bridge commemorating the deep, historical friendship between Thailand and… (checks notes) Belgium? Sure, why not – it didn’t NOT look like the bridges I saw in Belgium this summer. (Turns out there were a LOT of friendship monuments in this park for various random countries.)

Also lizards.

Monitor Lizard

After this we hopped on the elevated train to go look for a nearby (missing, as it turns out) geocache. But all this “doing things that are not eating” had helped us worked up an appetite.  We had heard that shopping mall food courts could be surprisingly worthwhile in Bangkok, and since we were immediately adjacent to a large shopping mall, we decided to give it a shot.

Friends, I have never seen so many “Michelin Recommended” symbols in one room. Here’s some crab fried rice from one of them.

Crab fried rice

For the rest of the day, we just sort of bopped around the city.  We went to the tallest building in Bangkok, thinking we’d check out the sky deck, but were given pause by how expensive tickets were.  We’d been eating world class food for pennies – it was a bit jarring to be asked for approximately forty dollars Canadian to ride an elevator.

So instead we just kept walking around.

We sat in a lovely Indian inspired temple watching people come in to make offerings after work, and then we sat in a coffee shop surrounded by lavishly presented Marvel memorabilia.

We wandered down to another cache hidden in front of a massage parlor, but the women hanging out in front were all happy to point it out to us, as soon as it became clear that’s what we were doing.

By dinner time, we were basically getting delirious with jet lag, so rather than cope with anything too complicated at that point, we decamped to another mall for papaya salad and mango sticky rice.  I say “another mall”, but Icon Siam is sort of next level, as it turns out.

After dinner we grabbed a ferry back across the river and walked back to our hotel, pausing only to first, marvel at whatever the hell THIS is:

And second, snap another photo of Yarowat Road.  Looks a little different at night, doesn’t it?

Thailand was off to a good start.

 

Thailand, Day 0: Planning and Preparation

Both of the people who have read all of this blog may have noticed a pattern with the travel portions – they virtually all revolve around a professional conference; usually Leigh’s, but occasionally Dan’s.  We’ve taken some AMAZING vacations, but the choice of destination is generally dictated by where ICMPC, or IPAC, or ACTOR, or SPECTRE is having their conference that year.  (The tote bag for the last one was amazing.)But the problem with that approach is that you don’t have any say in the destination, so if there’s somewhere in particular you want to go, you only have two options: keep waiting until one of your organizations decides to go there, or else look up who is planning a conference in your desired city, and then go become a pediatrician, or a forensic accountant, or a Lutheran, or whatever.And since we didn’t want to have to pick a synod, we appeared to be out of luck.Turns out, however, there’s a loophole.  You’re allowed to just… go somewhere?  Like, you can buy tickets on an airline, and then reserve a room at your destination, and they just let you do it.  You don’t even need a cheap tote bag full of vendor tchotch or shark laser upgrades.Who knew, right?We were very excited to discover this fact, and decided that for our first trick, we wanted to go to Thailand.  We wanted to see wildlife, and experience culture, and sit on a beach and… Nah, let’s be honest – we wanted to eat ourselves stupid. And then maybe look at some culture once dinner had settled.We chose late November as our preferred travel time, since it is largely past the end of the monsoon season but before the start of the Christmas travel season. Like with Japan, we spent so much time PLANNING the trip, that by the time our departure rolled around, preparing for this trip had basically become a part time job of its own.But the fateful day arrived, and we were off to (checks notes) Seoul!Wait, what?  Yeah, it turns out that although you CAN take a direct flight from Vancouver to Bangkok, no one in their right mind would want to, so we flew KAL.  Here’s a picture of us with a terrifying mascon in the Incheon airport.

Incheon mascot

And then just a short 5 hours later, we landed in Bangkok, caught a ride share to our hotel, and collapsed.  Actual Thailand will commence in the next entry.

International Meals – Mauritania

Mauritania is a west African country bordered to the south by Senegal and to the north by…

(checks notes)

You know what, never mind.

It is presently in a period of democrac-ish, which is good, but still has an uncomfortable amount of slavery, which is very, very bad..

Let’s just get to the food, shall we?

We struggled to find a dish that wasn’t more identified with either Morocco or Senegal, and we eventually settled on Leksour, which is a lamb stew served over millet flour pancakes.

Rather than buy millet flour, I used our spice grinder to make it from some millet we had left over from a previous recipe.  (I’m NOT going to back and try to identify which one, because then I’ll have to admit how long that millet has been in the cupboard.)

Millet and wheat flours

The flours are mixed together with water and a bit of salt, and that batter rests for a bit as you get to work on the stew.  Which, to be fair, is pretty straightforward.  Brown some stewing lamb.

Lamb chunks

Chop up some vegetables and toss them in with salt, pepper and a bay leaf.

Lamb stew cooking

Then stew for an hour.

The pancakes were interesting – the dough was substantially stiffer than normal pancake batter, but given that the ratios for flour to water I found online were all over the map, I’m not sure if it was supposed to be or not.  None of them seemed to either burn, or be too undercooked, at any rate.  I think they may have been a little under, but it’s hard to say – there’s also a variety of colors of the millet itself out there to choose from.

Millet pancake cooking

And once the pancakes are ready, you just put the stew on the pancakes and eat it.

Mauritanian stew

And it was fine.  There’s nothing wrong with a basic lamb stew, and the flatbread was good to soak up the juices.  But it was also… pretty basic.  The research for African countries is frequently difficult, as we’ve discussed earlier, and I’m sure there’s more interesting things that could be done with this if we had a better sense of what the normal range was.

But as it was, we had a nice Thursday night dinner and leftovers for several days.

Next up, we’re off to a country whose name could easily be mistaken for Mauritania, but isn’t.

Recipe:
Leksour (Mauritanian-style Pancakes with Sauce)

 

International Meals – The Marshall Islands

After doing the Maldives a few meals ago, we’re back out in the ocean for a country with an even higher ratio of water to land – the Marshall Islands. This time it’s not the Indian Ocean – we’re going to be a bit more Pacific than that.

Sorry.  However, if I’m going to say anything much about the history of the Marshall Islands, that’s the last bit of levity we’re getting for a while.  You see, the most famous of these Islands is Bikini Atoll, where the good ‘ol USA decided to set off the first hydrogen bomb.  And then the second one.

In time, the US would detonate 67 nuclear weapons in the Marshall Islands at Bikini and Enewetak atolls. The health impacts of the tests are still felt today, and likely will continue to be a serious issue right up until the likely destruction of the entire country due to climate change.

Woof.

OK, let’s talk about some food now, please?

The Marshall Islands have at various times been inhabited and / or governed by aboriginal populations from Australia and elsewhere, Germany, Japan, and the United States.  They’ve been independent since 1979, although they still depend on the US for things like (checks notes) bank insurance?  Huh.

At any rate, that’s a lot of influences.  As one might expect, fish is quite common, and as we’ve seen in other oceanic countries, pumpkin also comes up a lot.  Although rice isn’t native to the islands, a glutinous rice ball is a very common side dish, and finally the arguable national dish is a macadamia nut pie, despite the fact that macadamia nuts AREN’T originally native to these atolls.

We’ll get to the pie, but let’s make our main dishes first.  While most authentic would likely be to wrap the fish in banana leaves and grill it, I found a recipe for baked fish with a coconut milk sauce that sounded amazing (spoiler: it was), so we decided to go with that one.

First you make a sauce with coconut cream, onion, chilis, lemon juice, and a little corn starch for thickener.

Coconut sauce

Next, you shake the fish in a container with a coating made of flour, salt, and white pepper. Barramundi would probably be the most common fish, but the store had black cod on sale, so black cod it was. Plus, black cod is delicious.

Fish ready to be dusted
The fish gets lightly browned in oil, and then baked in the sauce with a layer of tomato slices on top.  I definitely think we’ve probably wandered a bit from traditional Marshallese food here, but here it is.

Fish baking

While the fish bakes, we had a go at two more dishes, a pumpkin rice porridge, and chuck chuck.

Chuck chuck is simplicity itself: make some sticky rice, roll it into balls with a little sugar and salt, roll said balls in coconut.  One problem – our sticky rice, for once, turned out not at all sticky, so we ended up with rice piles, rather than balls.

Rice "balls"

The pumpkin rice dish had recipes that were more vibes than anything else – “Boil the pumpkin until tender, add rice, cook until done, add coconut milk, and cook until absorbed.”  But since all the sources agreed that a) these were, in fact, the steps in the process and b) sweating the details was likely not critical, we went with it.

Pumpkin:
Pumpkin cooking

Pumpkin + rice:
[photo missing]

Pumpkin + rice + coconut milk:

Well, we didn’t take a photo specifically of that step either, so here’s the whole meal on a plate.

Isn’t that yellow color pretty?  It’s entirely from the pumpkin.

For all the various hiccups, this meal goes hard. The rice, er, piles may not have ended up as finger food, but the sweet and salty flavor with the coconut was excellent.  May have to try this one again as a weeknight side.

The pumpkin rice porridge was hearty and delicious.

And finally the fish.  My heavens, the fish.  The ingredients weren’t all that complicated, but as mentioned earlier – black cod is delicious, and the sauce fused the chilis, coconut, and lemon juice together brilliantly.  The tomatoes, in particular, were so tasty when infused with the sauce, that I frankly do not care if they are remotely authentic.

And now, let’s make a macadamia nut pie.  At least, once we recover from the sticker shock.

Macadamia Nuts

I will point out that these two small bags of nuts constituted half the cost of the entire meal.  And black cod ain’t cheap, either.

But it’s the national dish, so let’s do this.  First off – scratch pie crust. Pulse dry stuff in blender, then add wet until it coheres. Wrap in plastic, rest in fridge.

Dough resting

We’ve watched lots of Bake Off – how hard can this be?

Oh wait. We’ve watched lots of Bake Off – we know EXACTLY how hard this can be.  But the dough rolled out nicely, and rather than a blind bake the recipe we found called for dusting the bottom of the crust with coconut.

Pie crust
The filling is a sugared coating for the nuts, similar to a pecan pie.  It consists of either corn syrup or honey, (the former is likely more common, but for obvious reasons we went with the latter) butter, coconut milk, light brown sugar (which is apparently “golden” sugar here in Canada), and eggs.

You just mix those ingredients together, fold in the nuts, pour that into the shell, and bake.

Then 30 seconds later, you realize you left out one bag of your absurdly expensive nuts, yank the thing out of the oven, and toss those in to keep baking.

Honestly, I don’t think that was the issue – rather, I suspect blind baking WOULD have helped the crust be a little less doughy at the end.  Still, you can’t see that in the picture, can you?

Macadamia pie
There was one more minor hiccup before serving – you’re supposed to make a coconut whipped cream to go on top, but I didn’t realize you have to whip the cream BEFORE you add the coconut milk, or it won’t set up.  Lesson learned.

A quick nip over to the grocery store, and it turned out they HAD coconut whipped cream on the shelf, pre made an ready for topping.

Which we did.  And it was good. As was the pie itself.  I mean – macadamia nuts in sugar and honey – how can you go wrong?

The Marshall Islands may have a depressing past and future, but their present seems to be delicious.

Next up – Mauritania!

Recipes:
Coconut Fish
Chuk Chuk
Pumpkin Rice Porridge
Macadamia Nut Pie

International Meals – Malta

Hooray Malta!

Maltesers - Wikipedia

(Checks notes)

OK, I am informed that Maltesers have nothing to do with Malta.  Dammit.

OK, what DOES have to do with Malta?

Well, lets see – the island has at various times been ruled by Phoenicia, Carthage, Greece, Rome, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Knights Hospitalier, France, and Britain.  It became independent in 1964, and is so small and densely populated that the entire country is essentially considered one big urban region. Its capital city, Valletta, is the smallest capital in the EU by both population and area.

Also, it’s real pretty:
Valletta - Wikipedia

Like last week, I’ll point you to an Overly Sarcastic video for more information.

But let’s talk food.  The most commonly named option for the national dish of Malta is Stuffat tal-Fenek, a rabbit stew made with red wine.  Well that sounds tasty – lets get us a rabbit.  That’ll be photogenic, right?  Sure would have been, if I had remembered to take a picture BEFORE dismembering it.

Jointed rabbit

A bowl of rabbit parts with some bay leaves and garlic is less impressive, but trust me, it was a whole rabbit before I got started.  Thanks to Jamie Oliver for the instructional video on the deconstruction. This got marinated for most of the day in “cheap and cheerful” red wine.

But before we get on to dinner, there’s another rabbit bit to talk about:

Rabbit Liver

This is the rabbit liver, and it’s considered a delicacy in many quarters.  A traditional thing to do with it is to scoop it out of the stew and use it to make a pasta sauce which is served over noodles as a first course.  That sounded like a LOT to do all at once, so instead I made a pasta sauce with it that we had for lunch.

First you sweat some onions while the pasta is boiling:

Onions and pasta

Then you brown the livers, and use this as the base of a tomato pasta sauce.  This sauce calls for a number of ingredients for which we had to make substitutions.  For example, it calls for a “Maltese Cheeslet.”

I am informed that I am no longer allowed to use that as a pet name for Leigh.

So failing that, I just got some feta cheese.

It also calls for a fancy sounding ingredient called “Cucina d’Oro Cooking Sauce.” I can find LOTS of hyperbolic language describing this product online (largely from the manufacturer) but very little about what it is actually intended to DO in a dish. It appears to be powdered buttermilk in a matrix of palm oil and starch.

I just used heavy cream.

There’s also some chili powder and fennel seed in here.  It’s actually quite a delicious sauce when you get done making it.

Rabbit liver pasta sauce.

And that was lunch.

Rabbit Liver Pasta

Moving on to dinner, the first step is to take the rabbit out of the marinade and sear it on all sides.

Rabbit seearing

That accomplished you then, (what else?) sweat an onion with some garlic and bay leaves.

Onions sweating

This being a stew, the cooking process from this point forward is “put stuff in the pot, cook it for a while, put more stuff in the pot.”  That included the marinade (which, recall, is basically just red wine), carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, more bay leaves, and salt and pepper.  Then it just… stews for a while.

Rabbit stew

Despite the fact that this stew CONTAINS potatoes, the suggested side dish for the recipe we found was… potatoes.

So – slice the potatoes medium thick, layer with onions and olive oil, and cover with foil. (Foil not pictured)

Potatoes ready for cooking.
The idea is that you steam them for about 45 minutes in the foil to get them nice and soft, then take the foil off and let them crisp up on top.  The former happened, and they did crisp up some but we were hungry and the stew was done, so we popped them out when they looked like this.

Maltese potatoes

They were pretty good, but for leftovers I’m going to add some cheese.

And here’s the final spread:

Maltese meal
Not bad, right?  The rabbit was nicely cooked without being tough, and the stew was quite flavourful.  That flavour being basically “red wine,” but we LIKE red wine.  The potatoes on the side had quite a different texture than the potatoes in the stew, so they didn’t feel redundant.

And it was good!  The rabbit was a bit pricey, but we got a TON of leftovers out of this meal, so no worries there.

Next up – The Marshall Islands.

Recipes:
Stuffat tal-Fenek (Maltese Rabbit Stew)
Patata fil-fom (Maltese style potaotes)
Rabbit Liver Pappardelle

International Meals – Mali

I feel a little bad about this one.

There’s a dish that’s mentioned on a lot of sites as the national dish of Mali, which is a stew called Tiguadege Na.  I found a recipe with a reasonably promising looking source.

But – I feel like we just didn’t quite DO enough.

Also, it’s remarkably similar to the dishes we made for Chad, the Gambia, and the Central African Republic, so I wonder if we should have tried harder to find something a bit more unique?  There’s lots of reasons why the African countries are frequently challenging, and also somewhat problematic, which I talk about a bit on the CAR page.

So anyway, Mali.  Fascinating country with a lot of really interesting history.  Timbuktu is in Mali.  You can learn more about that in this video. 

All that said, here’s the dish.

Brown some meat, then add onions and garlic until they’ve softened.  Our local Save On Foods had some wildly varying sizes of stew meat on offer, but since we were going to braise it forever, it didn’t really matter.

Meat and aromatics

Add tomatoes, broth, peanut butter, and Herbes de Province. I’m assuming the latter is due to the fact that France was the colonial aggressor in this part of Africa.

Finally, toss in carrots and potatoes and stew forever.

Stew in progress

It ended up being tasty, but much more watery than in the recipe photos.  If you try this one, I might consider doubling the peanut butter at least.

Peanut Stew

And that’s Mali.  They can’t all be huge production numbers, I suppose.  Next up, Malta!

Recipe:
Tiguadege Na

International Meals – Maldives

It’s been a few months since we did one of these meals.  Can’t imagine why.

Oh wait – see the preceding 24 entries on this blog for the reason why.

But we’re back, and it’s time to get back on our nonsense.  Heretofore unfamiliar specialty ingredient?

Canned tuna
Chec… oh no wait, that’s tuna.  OK, as I said – unknown specialty ingredient?

Fresh tuna
Chec… no, hang on, also tuna. One more try.

Dried tuna flakes

OK, this is ALSO tuna, but it is, nonetheless, a heretofore unfamiliar specialty ingredient.  Specifically, it’s dried tuna flakes.

Dried tuna

I’m sensing a theme here – where IS this country?

Maldives from Google maps.

Ah.  That explains all the tuna.

The Maldives have a population of half a million people, concentrated on a surface area the size of Fresno, making it the second most densely populated country in Asia. (after Singapore.) On the other hand, that surface area is spread out over a region the size of Maine, making it one of the most spatially dispersed countries in the world.  So that’s neat.

Also, they apparently eat a lot of tuna, because the two plausible dishes I could find as the most iconic are (checks notes) a tuna soup, and a cold tuna salad.

Good thing we LIKE tuna, then, innit?

OK, let’s make the salad, which is called Mas Huni. It is frequently eaten as a breakfast dish. You can find a bunch of different versions of it online, but some of them are so simple it didn’t feel like we’d be putting in sufficient effort. This one at least meant I had to get in the car to go get the dried tuna flakes.  (While I was at it, I also got some South Asian spices I’d been meaning to pick up, and then I went across the street and got donuts.)

And even for this, maximally complicated version, the process is “put everything in a bowl and mix it up.”  Everything in this case being canned tuna, tuna flakes, coconut, grated onion, green chilis, coconut milk, and some cilantro.

Mas Huni

Bam. Done.  What next?

The tuna soup is called Garudhiya, and there’s basically no difference in the recipes I found online.  First you poach the tuna for a bit, then you toss in some onions and curry leaves and poach it some more.

Garudhiya cooking

Salt to taste.  Is that all?

Well, we did one more thing, and it was the most time-consuming, but only because it’s a flatbread, so you have to cook them one at a time.  To make these Huni Roshi, you make a simple dough of flour, water, coconut milk, and shredded coconut, and then you just cook them in a pan.

Huni roshi dough

Like any batch cooking item (looking at you, pancakes) the first couple didn’t turn out so great, but they got better as we went along.  And that was it.  Here’s the full spread.

Maldives meal
Tuna, tuna, and bread for eating tuna.  And you know what?  It was pretty good.  The tuna soup was subtle, but that meant the tuna and curry leaves got to speak for themselves.  And the Mas Huni was extremely flavorful – the lime juice, coconut, and chilis really perked up the tuna to make something really tasty.  The leftovers got polished off for lunch on the next two days, which says something.

And that’s the Maldives!  They were tuna-riffic.

Next up, Mali!

Recipes:
Mas Huni and Huni Roshi
Garudhiya

Switzerland, July 16: Zurich

Our last day in Switzerland!  Also my last day in Europe after five weeks abroad.  That’s a long time!  It was not our most efficient day by any means, but we did see lots of stuff.

To start with, we decided to head down the shore of Lake Zurich to check out a famous statue by Jean Tinguely, the artist whose work we began our Swiss adventure by admiring in Geneva.

Unfortunately, the statue had been completely surrounded by a temporary screening complex for a summer film festival.

Me and Tinguely
The fact that we could see any part of the sculpture at all is a testament to how big the thing is, and how impressive it would probably have been if we could actually see it.

From there we headed up to visit the Pavilion Le Corbusier, one of the last works by the famous architect.  It was closed.  Very impressive from the outside, however.

Pavillion Le Corbusier

After two semi-strikeouts (we did, after all, get to LOOK at the big building) we headed back up the tram line to visit the Kunsthaus, which is a major art museum.  Absolutely phenomenal collection – we took one look at the map and realized we were going to have to be very diligent about picking our targets if we didn’t want to just spend the entire rest of our trip at this one museum.

A prospect we seriously thought about, to be honest.

Clock
From an exhibit sampling the history of computers being used to make art, this is a clock consisting of four displays – a mechanical flip-dot display, LED, LCD, and then TFT, showing the evolution of display technology over time.

This is a piece by Alexandra Ekster, a name I’m going to have to try and look into more.Art by Alexandra Ekster

And so much more.  Leigh and I could have easily spent the rest of the day in the 20th century collection alone.

One other extremely thought provoking exhibit had to do with the history of the museum and its collection as it related to a man named Emil Georg Bührle. Bührle was an extremely wealthy man, an avid collector of art, and a passionate supporter of the museum.  Problem is, he was also an arms dealer who used slave labour to make weapons for the Nazis.

Which raises the extremely complicated question – what are the implications for works in the collection that were acquired by Bührle?  In particular, works looted from their rightful owners, or works of dubious provenance, for whom there is no obvious inheritor today?  Or even works that were more or less legally purchased, but in a massively coercive environment? (Picture from Wikipedia)

La Petite Irène

Renoir didn’t cause the holocaust, but this work is now inexplicably tied to those events.  What are the implications of displaying it with, or without, giving that context?

The exhibit thoughtfully presents a number of perspectives on these issues, without necessarily resolving the questions – it seems to be at least partially intended to be the next step in the conversation over what the next step AFTER the conversation should be.

OK, that’s pretty heavy.  Without downplaying the seriousness of the issues, (and seriously, go look into the online version of the exhibit – it’s very good) let’s continue our day in Zurich.

We grabbed some lunch, and then headed back DOWN the lake again to see the interior of the now-open Le Corbusier pavilion.

The building was just as cool on the inside as it was on the outside.  Lots of neat midcentury stuff going on.

Pavilion Le Corbusier roof
Le Corbusier Kitchen

And then we decided we hadn’t seen quite ENOUGH modern art yet, so it was off to the museum of design, helpfully labelled in my favorite font that tells you you are in the future:

Museum of design

There weren’t a lot of exhibits on display, but we enjoyed the hallway of movie posters, (none of which I remembered to photograph,) and an exhibit on the influence of club legend and event organizer Susanne Bartsch

Susanne Bartsch exhibit

By this point, museums were starting to close, but we still had energy left, so what else can we see?  How about the Polybahn?

Polybahn

This is an extremely short funicular railroad (under 600 meters) designed to take students up the hill from the area of the main train station to the ETH Zurich university.  (Which used to be called the Polytechnic, hence the name.)  It’s short, but it’s also almost straight up, so definitely a good thing to have.  And the view from the top is nice, too.

As a bonus, it was located about half a block from our AirBnB.  Given that the total travel time is 60 seconds, the next morning it made perfect sense to grab a coffee and ride up to the top to enjoy the view while drinking it.  I’ll post that picture here, because the weather was nicer than on the 16th.

View from the top of the Polybahn

Once we took in the view, we decided to nip up the street a few tram stops to pair our earlier trip to Einstein’s apartment with one formerly belonging to Schroedinger.  Now, this one is still someone’s home, so you can’t go inside or anything, but you can check the current status of the cat.

Schroedinger's cat

Alive.  Excellent.

It wasn’t QUITE dinner time yet, but there weren’t a lot of other sights we were desperate to see, so instead we decided to go hunt down one more destination geocache.  We found it, but we also found a pretty nice view while we were there.

View overlooking Zurich

That’s a pretty nice shot, innit?

At this point, we WERE starting to get hungry, but no so hungry we didn’t have time to wander around a bit and consider our options.  We poke our heads in the door at the surfing restaurant (i.e., there was a wave pool, and you could watch people surf while you ate), but ended up at a delightful place that seemed primarily populated by locals called “Les Halles.”

Final meal in Switzerland
And with that, we headed back to our AirBnB to pack and crash.  Maybe we got ice cream, but then we definitely packed and crashed.

The next morning, after my little jaunt up the Polybahn to drink my coffee, it was off to the airport and home.  This was an absolutely amazing set of trips, but after five weeks, hoo boy was I ready to get home.

Now we can just go back to posting about cooking for a while.

Liechtenstein and Switzerland, July 15: Vaduz and Zurich

For having the longest post title of the trip, this will nonetheless be one of the shorter posts.  Leigh covered our morning in the hills of Liechtenstein, so once we finished our llama walk, it was time to take the bus back down the mountain to the bustling urban capital of Vaduz.

We made our way to the nearest bus stop, where we were presently joined by a local woman to wait for the bus.  When it arrived, we all boarded, the doors closed, and then the woman suddenly started saying something to us that seemed extremely urgent, despite our minimal command of German.

Then we looked out the window and saw our bag of bars from the chocolate making class sitting on the bench of the bus stop.

Much frantic gesticulating and shouting at the driver ensued, and I did manage to get released before the bus left to jump out, grab the chocolate, and hop back on.

When we arrived in the capital, we stuck our luggage in a locker and went for a walk about the downtown area to see what we could see.  There’s a few interesting sights, but we didn’t remember to take pictures of many of them.

You can look up the hill at the Prince’s castle, but since he lives there, you can’t go inside.  We decided to just look at a model instead. (You can see both in this shot.)

Model and castle

We went to the postage stamp museum, that was cool.  Pity we didn’t take any photos.  There’s also a statue dedicated to Liechtenstein’s most famous composer, Josef Rheinberger.  (Who I initially confused for the ever so slightly marginally more famous Jaromir Weinberger, author of Schwanda the Bagpiper. I am not making this up.)

I did manage to remember to take one picture of this exhibit in the modern art gallery above the postage stamp museum.

Art exhibit

The shoes were part of a different work, but I was really taken by the collection in the back.  While they may seem to be a number of different objects, the entire set is actually a single work of art, designed to look like a cultural exhibition on the history of a fictitious country.  It includes artifacts and artworks from the Neolithic period up to the present day, but all from a place that doesn’t really exist.   Neat.

However, at that point it was starting to rain pretty hard, so we decided it was time to depart the principality and head back to Switzerland for our last stop on the tour – Zurich!  But here’s one last shot from the train station in Sargens that encompasses a pretty substantial chunk of the entire country.

Liechtenstein, seen from Sargens

In Zurich, we were staying in our first AirBnB for the entire trip, above a jazz club in a busy downtown neighborhood.  It was pretty nice – it had vinyl records, a French press, a whiteboard to write messages to future guests.  Needless to say – we weren’t anything LIKE hip enough for this room.

We walked around the neighborhood a bit, had some tapas, then walked around some more.  Saw this dude in a crypt:

Statue in basement

And this lady at the train station:

Train station art
And then we went and crashed.  One day left!

Liechtenstein, July 15: Triesenberg

What do you think of when you think of Liechtenstein?[1] If you’re like most people, the answer to that question might be “Where?” Or maybe “Um, stamps?” Or maybe even, “Tax haven banking?” These are all valid answers. But another valid answer is, “Somewhere that Dan and Leigh have been talking about going for 20 years.”

See, dear reader, when we got married (20 years ago next week, as of this writing!), we had a grand plan for a honeymoon. We wanted to go to the tiny countries of Europe – Andorra, Monaco, San Marino, Vatican City, and Liechtenstein.[2] Why, you ask, even though you should know better than that by now if you know anything about either of us? Um, because they’re tiny and you can walk across them before lunch?[3] Because probably nobody else in the history of ever has come up with that as their honeymoon plan?

Anyway, the opportunity to have that particular honeymoon (or really, any honeymoon) never materialized.[4] However, in 2010 I was invited to a town really, really close to Liechtenstein –right on the border, called Feldkirch, Austria – to give a talk at a conference there. While I was there, I took a free morning to take a train from Feldkirch to Buchs, Switzerland (just on the other side of Liechtenstein) and walk back. Why? Because I could.

Here’s how that went: at about 9 am, I stopped at the front desk of my hotel and asked if they had an area map I could use for the morning, because I was planning to take a train ONE STOP to Buchs and walk back from there.[5] The front desk clerk was horrified by this idea, and kept saying, “But this is very far! You will get tired.” Reader, it’s three miles from Feldkirch to Buchs. I’m hoping that her concern was predicated on assumptions about Americans and their fitness levels in general, and not about this American’s fitness level in particular,[6] but she seemed to have some serious concern about whether or not I would be able to drag myself 3 miles across a completely flat portion of Liechtenstein without requiring medical assistance midway. Eventually she relented and handed me a map, but she also handed me the business card of a taxi company, saying, “When you get tired, you can call this company and they will come pick you up and bring you back here.” Yes, with emphasis on the word when, as if to highlight the inevitability of this occurrence.

A picture from my walk in 2010

So I took a five minute train ride to Buchs, Switzerland, got off the train, and walked a completely flat route of approximately 3 miles across Liechtenstein back to Feldkirch and my hotel. I recall that I got back about 12:30, which was probably because I stopped to have lunch and stare at goats.[7]

Historic Liechtenstein goats

I walked into the lobby of my hotel in Feldkirch to the apparent amazement of the front desk clerk who probably was worried that I was dead somewhere on the side of a completely flat road.

Anyway, that’s been my primary experience with Liechtenstein, which to be completely fair is still a lot more than most people’s primary experiences with Liechtenstein, and has resulted in a story that I have told more times than I can count.

But that means that Dan still hasn’t experienced Liechtenstein, so since we were in Switzerland, we thought it would be great to nip into Liechtenstein so that we could finally say that we had been there together, even if we weren’t actually able to both walk across it together.

While we were in the process of researching “things to do in Liechtenstein,” the option for a llama walk came up. You can probably imagine the glee with which we immediately signed up for this.

[insert Fry “take my money” image here]

Turns out, it’s not just a llama walk experience. Or, at least, it doesn’t have to be just a llama walk experience. If you want, it’s a stay-in-a-literal-yurt-on-the-llama-farm-and-go-on-a-llama-walk. And we wanted. Oh, did we wanted.

And we did.

Was this the most convenient part of our trip? The most on-the-way part? No. No, it was not. The llama farm was in Triesenberg, Liechtenstein. To get there we had to take a train from Lucerne to Sargans, Switzerland, and then a bus to Triesen, Liechtenstein, and then another bus to Triesenberg (which was basically up a mountain, so I’m not complaining that there was a bus there), and then walk a non-trivial way out of Triesenberg to the llama farm. (While being threatened with an oncoming rainstorm, as it turned out.)

Rainstorm in the mountains

But I’m getting ahead of myself. We arrived into Triesenberg, and Dan had found one of the few restaurants that was open that evening – in a hotel that was right near where we got let off. We walked in and tried to go into the restaurant, and the front desk clerk was VERY confused that we were walking into the hotel with luggage but we weren’t checking into the hotel and only wanted to go to the restaurant.

After dinner, and narrowly avoiding what looked like an imminent Alpensoaken, we arrived at the llama farm, where we got the first glimpse of the majestic creatures we would get to hike with the next morning. In eager anticipation, we spent the evening in the yurt, where our primary form of entertainment was trying to kill flies that wanted nothing more than to experience a non-llama lifeform. With that accomplished, we yurted ourselves to sleep.

The next morning, we emerged to find Marc, our human host, preparing the llama herd for the day’s excitement. We also met our walking compatriots, who were all adults accompanying children – because what rational adults would want to do this without children involved? (Oh, wait.) There was an older Swiss couple who were there with their granddaughter and her friend, and a French couple who were there with their daughter. And … us.

Llamas being prepared

Marc gave us the safety briefing for how to walk with llamas, and then assigned us llamas based on their – and our – personalities.

Llama safety briefing

This is how Dan ended up with Willie, who was described as a “teenager” who was somewhat volatile and unpredictable, and I ended up with Pius, who was the “leader” of the flock of llamas.[8]

Willie the llama

Willie the Llama

Pius, we were told, needed to be at the front, because his presence as a leader calmed the other llamas. So Pius and I forged the path for the other ridiculous creatures, and I will say that the view as the head llama is probably better than the view from behind the head llama.

Leigh and Pius the Llama (left)

As foretold, at various points of the walk Dan’s llama Willie determined that he should be the one in front, and Dan was somewhat forcibly coerced into something resembling a leadership position until Pius had enough of the teenager and resumed his rightful place at the head of the llama parade. But then Pius would get distracted by dandelions, which were apparently his very favorite snack.

Dan and llama

The walk itself involved rather a lot of going uphill, and also involved a copious amount of sweating and a fair number of mosquitoes, the latter of which was increased by the former. But I got to spend time with one of the most regal llamas I’ve ever met, so my joy was boundless.

[1] I mean, if men can think about the Roman Empire on a regular basis, why can’t we think about Liechtenstein?

[2] Luxembourg doesn’t qualify – it’s huge compared to these countries!

[3] Well, some of them. Some of them have really big mountains and it might take you until 3 pm.

[4] Don’t feel too bad for us. As this blog demonstrates, we’ve gotten to go some amazing places together; they were just a lot larger.

[5] There are only four train stops in Liechtenstein, one of which is abandoned. Tim Traveler talks about this here None of the three working ones were in any way convenient to the llama farm, for some reason.

[6] Canadian, now!

[7] Not at the same time. Well, okay, maybe.

[8] Google suggests either “flock” or “herd” as the collective noun; I feel like we’re missing out on the grandeur of “cavalcade” or the implied hilarity of a “business,” but fine.